Deborah Hall has announced her retirement as a winemaker after her most recent vintage is released this Spring. Besides the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay famous throughout the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Gypsy Canyon Winery also has a historic plot of Mission vines dated 1887 or thereabouts. This is the source of her “Ancient Vines Angelica”.
We at OBG had the pleasure of having lunch and a tour one May afternoon several years ago. Ms. Hall was and is a fine hostess and generous with sharing her knowledge and passion for the wine, the vines and her rescue project of saving dogs destined for the dog meat trade in South Korea. Her Ground Boots label series of wines is her fundraising source for this effort and they are no lesser wines than her Gypsy Canyon label.
We have heard that both the Angelica and Ground Boots labels will be continuing into the future. Make the effort to find Gypsy Canyon wine and, if you see Deborah in person, be sure to thank her for her work.
We posted this video of our tour back in 2015….
Less than a month after devastating fires ravaged Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties, the Wine Bloggers Conference was held in Santa Rosa, one of the hardest hit areas in the wine country fires.
We watched with the rest of the country as the news of the fires came through our various screens. Needless to say, our first concern was for our friends in the area (they were okay), then the countless others who lost their lives, their homes, and their businesses. But as the flames died down, we began to wonder whether Santa Rosa would still be able to host WBC 2017.
The answer came pretty quickly – not only was the hotel able to host, the surrounding associations and wineries were eager to have us. Even better, while no one wants to diminish just how bad the fires were, the vineyards did what vineyards do. They acted as a firebreak, meaning that the fires could have been even worse.
Yes, there were some wineries that were damaged, including a few, such as Paradise Ridge, that were completely destroyed. But the vast majority of the wineries remain intact and open for business.
But they all say the best way to get the region back on its feet is something we like to do anyway – visit and buy wine. Heck, even Sean, from Paradise Ridge, said that they had some inventory that had been stored elsewhere and they could really use the sales now. The site is fully operational and even has a whole section on the fires and how they’re planning to come back.
Since this is the time of year people like to plan vacations, think about Northern California’s wine country.
A couple years ago, we met winemaker Marisa Taylor, whose makes awesome merlot for Rutherford Hill. We were also privileged to feature her here on the blog. Well, the news is not good. Ms. Taylor is battling not one, but two forms of cancer and her friends have set up a GoFundMe campaign to help the family during this really, really tough time. Given what a great interview we got from Ms. Taylor, we thought we’d run the piece again. In the meantime, here’s the link to the campaign, Go, Marisa, Go.
Today’s lesson is about the much-abused merlot grape and it’s coming from a winemaker who makes some of the most glorious merlot wine we’ve tasted in a very long time.
We met Marisa Taylor, winemaker for Rutherford Hill, at a tasting event for a local TV station. She’s one of the three winemakers featured in Vintage: Napa Valley 2012, a six-part documentary on winemaking. We met her again at the Wine Bloggers Conference in July, where she led a tasting on Napa merlots with P.J. Alviso, Director of Estate Viticulture for Duckhorn Vineyards. It was one of those rare tastings that gives conspicuous consumption a good name. Taylor does not make cheap wine, let us tell you. But it is worth it. So was the chat we had with her after the tasting.
“You can expect a luciousness… juicy,” Tayler said about what to expect when you open a good bottle of merlot. “I think merlot tends to be more of a red fruit flavor.”
That’s tasting more like cherries or strawberries, rather than dark, heavy blackberries. In short, it tends to be a somewhat lighter wine than its blending pal cabernet sauvignon.
“You’ll know it when you taste it,” Taylor said about the red flavor profile. “Is it just darker or, hey, no. It makes me feel happy and it’s nice and rosy and red. In general, I think that merlot is a nice complement, companion with food. And I think that it’s something that will fill your mouth and be full-bodied. And it’s not like a hard… Cabernets can be tannic and tough and just dry your mouth out. And merlot doesn’t generally do that.”
The merlot grape is one of the five traditional components of Bordeaux wine, where it is grown and blended in varying strengths with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Outside of France and Europe, it’s frequently made as a stand-alone variety.
The wine, alas, got a really bad rep in the late 1990s when it got really popular and everyone started growing and making merlot. And a lot of it was really bad wine. Then, in 2004, the film Sideways came out, about two guys dealing with their issues while wine tasting in the Santa Ynez Valley. And in one memorable scene, Miles (Paul Giamatti), the so-called expert of the two, trashes merlot.
But Taylor thinks that the bad old days are gone when it comes to merlot.
“I think bad merlots have been weeded out from that Sideways effect,” she said. “And I think that we are seeing better and better merlots on the market.”
Taylor’s tips for finding a good one? She suggested looking for the appellation, or where the grapes are grown, such as the Napa region Or…
“Look for Rutherford Hill on the label,” she joked.
Which is not entirely bad advice. We tasted their Napa Valley Merlot, 2010, which is at least 75 percent merlot, but this one also has a little bit of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and syrah blended in. Mike noted its dark color – pretty typical of merlot wine – a caramel chocolate nose, with good acids with smooth, abundant tannins, and a nice finish. Plus it’s got great aging potential. It was Mike’s favorite.
Anne, however, preferred the Atlas Peak Merlot, 2010, which was 100 percent merlot. Mike noted a bit of anise and tar (it’s actually a good thing) on the nose, with good fruity, earthy flavor. The tannins were still there. And while Mike thought this had a shorter finish (the taste didn’t linger as long on the tongue), he also thought this one had even better potential for aging.
Now, the Napa Valley Merlot retails at $28, which sounds like a lot until you realize that the Atlas Peak was second least expensive, at a mere $50 for wine club members. Yipes! The rest of the bottles in the tasting all retailed at $95 and up. Oddly enough, the two above wines were our favorites – and that’s before we knew what they cost.
When we started OddBallGrape.com, we did not want the blog to be about us. Frankly, we’re not that interesting. Well, we weren’t, until Michael jumped into a wine history project that seems to have gotten all kinds of people more than a little excited.
In Real Life, Michael is the archivist for the city of Los Angeles – an insanely cool job. And as part of that job, he’s been working with Chris Espinoza, who is the director of El Pueblo de Los Angeles, the oldest part of the city. The two have been trying to find ways to connect what they do, since Michael has the paperwork and the history in his vault and Espinoza has, well, a state park, in which is located Olvera Street and one of the oldest buildings (if not the oldest) in the city, dating back to 1818. And way back when the adobe in question was actually being lived in, someone planted three grape vines, one across Olvera Street which was then known as Wine Street, one in the adobe’s courtyard and one just outside the adobe.
And last year or so, Michael asked Espinoza if he could trellis and prune the vines and see
if he could get some grapes off of them. Espinoza said yes, and Michael spent all last year, carefully pruning the courtyard vine, keeping an eye on things and consulting with Wes Hagen, a professional winemaker, who for years made the truly awesome Clos Pepe wines out of the Santa Rita Hills. Clos Pepe is now gone and Hagen has moved on to another venture. But he and Michael did convince the nice folks up at University of California, Davis, to do the DNA analysis on the vines for free and it turns out that these three vines came from the one remaining vine at Mission San Gabriel, one of the 21 missions founded by Father Junipero Serra in the late Eighteenth Century. For the record, the vines are known as “Vina Madre” a cross of the European vitis vinifera and a local Southern California grape called vitis girdiana.
Then in September, as Michael was beginning to harvest the few grapes there, Hagen ratted him out to S. Irene Virbila, the wine critic for the Los Angeles Times. Well, Virbila, being the good reporter she is, smelled a story and wrote it up.
Now, everyone is checking in and offering ideas. What Michael did decide to do is make a wine called Angelica (which we just heard was named for the city of Los Angeles). It was what the winemakers in L.A. were making up through the late 1870s, when Los Angeles was the primary wine growing and making region in the state (take that, Napa). Angelica is a sweet wine that is also fortified by adding brandy or other alcohol to the mix. We have about 25 pounds of grapes, so we won’t be getting very much. But it will be interesting and we promise to add updates in this space as we get them.
Eight winemakers from around California and even Arizona are on a panel, the topic: “The State of the Rhone Nation.” The result? An extended and wide-ranging conversation covering growing syrah in Arizona to earthquake damage in Napa to the miseries of being an “Other White” on a restaurant wine list. The panel happened at a recent Rhone Rangers tasting event in Los Angeles.
The Rhone Rangers was one of the first varietal advocacy groups. Winemakers got together about 20 years ago to start these groups to help market their wines and educate the public about grape varieties that were then pretty new and strange. While most advocacy groups seem to focus on a single grape variety – ZAP or Zinfandel Advocates and Producers, and TAPAS or Tempranillo Advocates, Producers and Amigos Society – the Rangers focus on the whole panoply of grapes traditionally grown in the Rhone River region of France, but which are also grown all over the world now, varieties such as grenache, syrah, mourvedre, viognier and others.
We have to concede, the quality of the audio is not very good. Sorry about that. Audio is something new for us at OBG, but sometimes there is nothing like hearing things as they happened, and there’s some pretty good stuff here (even if it’s about 90 minutes long). The next recording will be better.
Every now and then we run across an exceptionally hot deal and we figure it’s only fair to share. It’s the Sonoma Landing 2008 Pinot Noir.
The current super-deal is at BevMo, home of the 5 Cent Sale, currently on now. You buy a featured wine at the regular price and the second matching bottle for a nickel. The stock will probably differ from store to store, depending on sell-outs and if the wine came from a smaller winery, or any of thousand reasons why your local BevMo may not have it.
Our local BevMo is selling this bottle for $14.99 plus the second bottle for 5 cents, and given the fact that when Anne did a Google search on Sonoma Landing Pinot Noir, the BevMo link came up at the top, we’re guessing that we’re not the only ones who think this is a terrific deal.
Don’t expect a super-silky texture or transendental sense of place. This is a very food-friendly glass with balanced raspberry and cherry flavors, good acids, lighter mouthfeel, a good finish and very little overt oak influence. The alcohol is only 12.5 percent, which means two people can enjoy a bottle over dinner (like we did) and not feel it too badly.
The shocker? Apparently, Sonoma Landing is one of the Bronco Wine Company labels – which makes sense since the company also has a Napa Landing and a Santa Barbara Landing. Bronco also makes the infamous Charles Shaw wines, better known as Two-Buck Chuck, because Trader Joe’s sells them for $1.99.
We’ve often said that if you didn’t know you were drinking Two-Buck Chuck, you’d probably like it. Or at least like it a lot more than you would think. Some of the varietals are pretty awful. But the chardonnay is pretty darned good (that’s the one that gets all the medals), and the cabernet sauvignon is pretty consistently decent, too.
Which is the long way of saying that just because Bronco made the o8 Sonoma Landing Pinot is no reason to scoff at it. It’s a darned tasty wine at an even nicer price when you pick it up during the BevMo sale. If you can get there fast enough.
We’re having an insanely good lunch at the Hospice du Rhone on the last day of April – duck confit, goat cheese, roasted veggies (food was catered by The Girl and The Fig, of Sonoma, California), and it’s the rosé lunch, partly sponsored by the Synidcat de Tavel, where they make some of the world’s greatest dry rosés. Every table had five Tavels to share.
So what does Jason Haas, general manager of Tablas Creek Winery, go around and do? Plops down random bottles of the Tablas Creek 2009 rosé. Thank you, Jason. Was that good stuff! And given that we had the best of an entire region to compare it to, it compared quite favorably. We can’t say that any one of the wines was better than the others because they were all fabulous.
Anne then got out her trusty voice recorder and caught Haas sitting down for a chat about making rosé. As he noted, it’s a pretty simple process.
One of the nice things about the rosés is that they’re very straight forward to make,” Haas said. “You make your decision as to which lots you want to use. You bleed ’em off. You stick them in stainless steel and they’re done three weeks later.”
Well, actually, there are two ways to go. Keeping in mind that most grape juice is white, red wines and rosés get their color from the grape skins. Red wines are fermented with the grape skins and the juice. Juice that becomes rosé sits on the skins for only a day or two. Then, if that particular batch of wine is only going to be rosé, the grapes are pressed and the pink juice is made into wine. Or, if the winemaker wants to punch up some of the fruit flavors in a more typical red wine, some of the juice is bled off after a day or two and either tossed (feh) or made into rosé.
So which way do they do it at Tablas Creek?
“It’s actually half and half,” Haas said. “We have a section of the vineyard that we dedicate to making the rosé. We co-harvest and co-ferment about four rows of mourvedre, grenache and counoise. And use that as the base of the rosé. It’s actually our original nursery block that we planted to get more vines to plant the rest of the vineyard. So that’s the base of the rosé, and then we supplement that with mourvedre and grenache saignées from other lots of the vineyard. [Saignées are]bleed offs from the fermentation.”
The bleeding off, however, is not about the reds, Haas said, “Because we really like rosé. It would honestly make our lives a lot easier if we didn’t have to do it. But we love the rosé so much that we always scour the cellar for lots that we feel like we can bleed a little bit of wine off without making them too intense.”
The result was yummy. Stay tuned for tasting notes to come.
Oy. We’ve finally recovered from a busy weekend at the Hospice du Rhone (and the following week, which was busy but not for wine-related reasons). HdR is a two-day festival celebrating wines made from the 22 varieties of grapes commonly grown in the Rhone Valley of France. It’s one of the older variety-related tastings/gatherings in California and has become one of the most respected, as well.
We’ll be posting more on our experiences soon. But in the meantime, here are a few of the highlights of the weekend:
During the Syrah Shoot Out, the producers all blind taste and vote on the best syrah there. And we got to taste it! Yum!
Meeting winemaker Amy Butler, who is a kick and a half.
The fund-raising auction – what a hoot that was. As soon as we figure out how to post an audio file, you’ll get to hear auctioneer Todd Ventura in action.
The Rose Lunch – not sure what tasted better, the duck confit or the myriad Tavels (from the Tavel region and, by definition, are roses).
Guerilla tasting some viognier.
Chatting with and meeting with all the different winemakers – what a treat.
And finally, tasting all the wines – including several actual Rhones (Cotes du Rhone, Cote Rotie, Chateauneuf du Pape), from New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and from the U.S., including Washington State and believe it or not, California.
Is it any wonder we were completely blown on our backsides?
When the news broke yesterday that actor and winery owner Fess Parker had passed away, we knew we had to write about it. That’s because Anne met Parker when she did a profile on him for the May 2004 issue of Wines & Vines magazine.
Yes, Parker’s Santa Inez winery has been roundly (and sometimes justifiably) satirized and criticized for populist, mediocre wines that only sold because of his name. But not all of his wines were that bad. Some were even pretty darned good. We haven’t tasted them in a good long time, so can’t say where they are nowadays.
But there is no question Parker used his name to sell wine. Why not? The name had value, and he was fully conscious of it and made a point of using it. More to the point, he purposely became the face of the winery that his children actually ran, not to mention the two hotels he owned and his other businesses. Behind all that folksy charm (and he was charming), the man was one savvy businessperson.
He told Anne in their interview that he asked Walt Disney for 10 percent of the merchandising money from the Davy Crockett series that made him famous and got it. Granted, the merchandising industry was still in its infancy. Disney had been making some nice change off Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck toys since the 1930s. However, Parker’s request was remarkably astute for the time – and he had no way of knowing that sales of coon-skin caps were going to go through the roof.
Fess Parker Winery certainly isn’t the biggest, nor the oldest winery out in the Santa Ynez Valley. But it’s always been one of the most popular and probably has been a significant drawing point that got people out of nearby Solvang and out touring the surrounding hills and other wineries, particularly when the industry was relatively new. That’s why Anne went out there the first time.
We tended to avoid the place after that because it is one of those slick operations that we don’t really care for and the wines weren’t good enough to get us past that. And it was also usually crowded, and we hate that. But maybe it’s time to check in again – after the fuss has lessened. In the meantime, we raise a glass to Fess Parker and say our prayers for his soul and his family.
You can find Parker’s basic obituary here on the Yahoo site – both Yahoo and MSN.com picked up the Associated Press obit.