The Nelson Family Vineyards 2007 Orange Muscat is a surprising reminder of what a muscat can become when treated well. And let’s face it, too many winemakers have made a mess of this grape, making wine that is sweet, cloying, thick and generally overdone with no subtle flavors.
Tragic.
Tragic.
Muscat is easy to recognize most of the time. The orange scent wafting from the glass is unmistakable. It’s been said that adding one or two percent muscat to a chardonnay to increase the florals gives you all muscat and no chardonnay.
But this wine is all about the muscat. For starters, it’s been fermented dry, with no residual sugar. The flavor is full and rich in the mouth but not cloying like a cough syrup. If you have been turned off by one of those other “muscats”, the Nelson is worth investigating. One sip may be enough to change your mind. We speak from personal experience.
Here’s another muscat, a dry one, that might be worth your while:
It’s called Botani, it’s appellation is “Sierras de Malaga” from southern Spain, a DO which I believe dates back to the 1980s. The wine is 100% Moscatel de Alejandria, with a perfumey nose of floral, honey, spice, and tropical fruit notes. In the mouth it’s smooth, dry, and kind of juicy.
Domaine Gauby in Roussillon also makes a dry muscat-based wine that is very food-friendly, if a bit pricey at around $30.
PS: I agree on the nose-altering power of muscat. The Biltmore Winery here in Asheville makes something called “Century White” that is mostly riesling and gewurztraminer, but with the addition of just 5% muscat canelli, the latter grape completely takes over the nose.