(Not That) Peter Jackson on New Zealand Wines

New Zealand wines, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, white wine
Peter Jackson

When we were invited to do a tasting of New Zealand wines and interview with winemaker Peter Jackson, we were expecting to be part of a much larger group. Instead, it was just the two of us, Jackson and his publicist at a bar in Downtown Los Angeles.

By the way, this Peter Jackson is not the film director. He’s pretty good-natured about sharing his name.

“I grew up in Australia,” where, he added, there was a menswear company known as Peter Jackson. “I’ve just been cursed my whole life.”

When it comes to New Zealand wines, most people immediately think of sauvignon blanc, and there’s a good reason for that.  The variety accounts for around 80 percent of all grapes grown in New Zealand, although Jackson added that there is a growing demand for pinot gris and pinot noir, as well as chardonnay. Almost all of the grape growing is done in the state of Marlborough, which is at the southern tip of the island country.

Jackson, himself, grew up in Queensland, Australia, went to school in France, then ended up working for Crowded House and Catalina Sounds, which are two labels produced by the company.

What makes New Zealand wines distinctive

What makes a New Zealand sauv blanc so distinctive, according to Jackson, in the bright acidity and citrus.

“There’s a raciness and freshness that’s pretty hard to replicate,” he said. “You know you’ve got a wine that’s packed with flavor.”

Jackson recommends Asian noodles, fresh seafood, salads, and salty cheeses.

“There’s nothing better than fresh mussels,” he said. “It will hold up well with delicate white meat.”

We tasted the 2016 Crowded House sauvignon blanc, and Michael noted cut grass and some gooseberry on the nose. It had a dry finish and citrus flavors, minerals and acids. The 2017 Catalina Sounds sauv blanc had a more delicate nose and a quieter profile. There was, of course, citrus and some gooseberry, too.New Zealand wine, sauvignon blanc, white wine

Jackson said that pinot noir is getting to be an up and coming grape in New Zealand. It hadn’t done well until recently.

“They were planting the wrong clones,” Jackson said.

But nowadays, growers seem to have found the right clones, and are planting it more on the hillsides. Jackson makes his with native ferments.

“I can’t remember the last time I used yeast on a red,” he said.

We tried two Catalina Sounds pinot noirs. Michael noted that the 2015 was a slightly savory wine, with dry red and black fruit. The 2016 was very similar, but with a hint of spice.

Jackson said that he’s become very fond of his adopted country, where the people are quite humble and friendly.

“It’s absolutely one thing I love about New Zealand,” he said. “We realize that we’re all in it together. What’s good for you is going to be good for me.”

So, if you can’t find Crowded House or Catalina Sounds at your local wine store, try looking for a New Zealand wine, in general. They’re pretty tasty.

 

 

Halter Ranch 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

hrsauvblancHate to say it, but Halter Ranch’s Sauvignon Blanc is an also-ran.  We wanted to feature the winery’s 2008 rosé, but it was already sold out.  But that doesn’t mean the sauv blanc isn’t any good – just that the rosé was better.

It’s a cool climate sauvignon blanc with the citrus character in the nose that you would expect.  Okay, that the hard-core wine geeks would expect.  The acids are gentle, not bracing or especially palate cleansing.  And the rich mouthfeel and lack of oak contribute to the overall image of a good sipping wine, something to enjoy after a hot, long day at work. But it’s too well balanced and dry not to be enjoyed with a favorite summer brunch or picnic. White beans, cheesy polenta and ceviche would be great partners with a wine like this.

Ceja Summer Sipping

Sauvignon blanc is finally developing a following for the right reasons as opposed to being the Anti-Chardonnay. Lean, citrusy and crisp, it’s a great summer wine, and the Ceja 2007 sauv blanc, out of the Sonoma Coast region, fires on all the right cylinders.
If harvested and made with slightly underripe grapes, sauv blanc can have a distinctly “catbox” aroma. If overripe, it goes soft with melon and pineapple/tropical fruit aromas and taste. It is in that thin middle ground that its characteristic grapefruit aroma and crispness really gets to express itself.  Although, too much grapefruit and the wine is definitely out of balance.
The Ceja had the grapefruit aroma indicative of a normally ripe fruit at harvest. Not much oak was detected due to the use of older barrels, which added almost no flavor to the wine but did concentrate the fruit flavors. The concentration became obvious in the mouth with the lemony/lime crispness and minerals on the mid-palate. The decent finish and modest mouthfeel make this a good palate cleanser and an excellent aperitif.
While many sauv blancs are little more than lemony water, the Ceja is a nice summertime refresher.  Or try it alongside any number of dishes from chicken that’s been marinated in lime juice and garlic, ceviche or anything that has citrus elements.